Gravel Calculator -Cubic Yards and Tons

This gravel calculator gives you cubic yards and tons for any area and depth — whether you’re filling a driveway, laying a garden path, or topping a drainage bed.

Gravel calculator

 

 

Estimates for planning. Actual quantities vary with ground conditions, settling, and supplier measurements. Order from your supplier by the cubic yard or ton — both figures are shown above.

How I calculate this

The math has two steps. First I find the volume in cubic yards, then I convert to weight (tons) using the density of whichever gravel type you chose.

Volume formula:

cubic feet = length (ft) x width (ft) x depth (ft)
cubic yards = cubic feet / 27

If you enter depth in inches I divide by 12 first to get feet, then divide the cubic-foot result by 27. One cubic yard is 27 cubic feet — that’s 3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft — and it’s the unit gravel suppliers quote by the load.

Coverage at common depths (per 1 cubic yard):

Table showing cubic yards and tons of gravel needed for common area sizes at 2, 3, and 4 inch depths
Gravel needed by area and depth, including 10% waste. Tons shown for pea gravel (1.35 t/yd3). Crushed stone and river rock run slightly heavier at 1.40 t/yd3.
  • 2 inches deep: 162 sq ft per cubic yard
  • 3 inches deep: 108 sq ft per cubic yard
  • 4 inches deep: 81 sq ft per cubic yard

Weight conversion by gravel type:

  • Pea gravel: 1.35 tons per cubic yard (~2,700 lb). Smooth, rounded, loosely packed — one of the lighter options.
  • Crushed stone: 1.40 tons per cubic yard (~2,800 lb). Angular edges mean it compacts tighter, so it sits slightly heavier.
  • River rock: 1.40 tons per cubic yard (~2,800 lb). Smooth but dense; similar weight to crushed stone in practice.

These densities come from industry data across multiple aggregate suppliers and calculator references (InchCalculator, OmniCalculator). Real weights vary by moisture content and exact stone composition — dry material can run 5-10% lighter than wet. I use the dry loose-density figures above as a conservative middle ground.

The calculator adds a 10% overage by default. Gravel settles, ground is rarely perfectly level, and running short means a second delivery charge. I think 10% is right for most projects — bump it to 15% if your ground has dips or you’re doing a long driveway where consistency matters.

Worked example: backyard gravel path

Say you want to lay a pea gravel path that’s 40 feet long and 4 feet wide, at 3 inches deep.

Step 1 — cubic feet:
40 x 4 x 0.25 (3 in = 0.25 ft) = 40 cubic feet

Step 2 — cubic yards:
40 / 27 = 1.48 cubic yards

Step 3 — add 10% waste:
1.48 x 1.10 = 1.63 cubic yards

Step 4 — tons:
1.63 x 1.35 = 2.2 tons of pea gravel

Most suppliers sell by the cubic yard or the ton. Either number works — just be consistent with how your supplier quotes. A standard single-axle dump truck holds about 10-12 cubic yards, so this path is well under a single load.

Gravel type guide: pea gravel vs. crushed stone vs. river rock

The choice matters more than people think. I’ve used all three and each has a real sweet spot.

Pea gravel (smooth, 3/8 inch diameter, rounded) is comfortable underfoot and easy to rake flat. It’s the go-to for garden paths, play areas, and dog runs. The downside is that it migrates — it shifts toward the edges over time, especially on sloped ground or around kids and pets. You need an edging border to keep it in place. Depth recommendation: 2-3 inches.

Crushed stone (angular, irregular edges, typically 3/4 inch) locks together once compacted. It’s what driveways are actually made of — the angular pieces interlock under vehicle weight rather than rolling away. Use it anywhere you need stability: driveways, parking pads, base layers under patios. It’s harder to walk on barefoot, but it doesn’t move. Depth for driveways: 4-6 inches. For foot traffic paths: 3-4 inches.

River rock (smooth, 1-3 inch diameter) is the decorative choice. You see it in garden beds, dry creek beds, and around foundations. It looks great but doesn’t compact at all — if you walk on it regularly it will shift around. Best used as a top dressing over a weed barrier, not as a functional walking surface. Depth: 2-3 inches over landscape fabric.

One thing I’d add: if you’re doing a driveway or any load-bearing surface, crushed stone is the only sensible answer. Pea gravel under a car just packs out to the sides. It’s frustrating and you’ll regret it.

Practical notes on depth, compaction, and ordering

Depth rules of thumb: 2 inches is decorative minimum (garden beds, borders). 3 inches works for foot-traffic paths. 4+ inches for driveways or anywhere with vehicle load. If you’re going on top of an existing hard surface (cracked asphalt, concrete), 1.5-2 inches may be enough for decoration — you’re not filling voids.

Compaction shrinkage: Crushed stone compacts roughly 20-25% after it’s driven over or mechanically tamped. That 4-inch driveway layer may settle to 3 inches. This is part of why I use 10% overage minimum; for driveways I’d go 15-20%.

Ordering by ton vs. by yard: Most local quarries and landscape suppliers charge by the ton because that’s how their scales work. Big-box stores sell bagged gravel by weight (0.5 cu ft bags). The calculator shows you both so you can compare and convert. For any amount over 1 cubic yard, bulk delivery from a quarry is almost always cheaper than bags — sometimes dramatically so.

Base layer vs. top layer: If you’re doing a driveway from scratch, you typically want a compacted crushed-stone base (4-6 inches of crusher run) and then a finish layer (1-2 inches of pea gravel or a finer crushed stone) on top. Run the calculator twice — once for each layer — and add them together. The base layer uses a coarser, cheaper material; the finish layer is the one that shows.

To get your area right, take a look at our guide on how to measure a room — the same length x width method applies to outdoor areas. If you’re pouring a concrete pad next to the gravel area, our concrete calculator can handle that side of the project too.

Frequently asked questions

How many cubic yards of gravel do I need for a 10×10 area?

At 2 inches deep, a 10×10 area (100 sq ft) needs about 0.62 cubic yards. At 3 inches, it’s 0.93 cubic yards, and at 4 inches, it’s 1.24 cubic yards. Add 10% for waste and round up to the nearest half-yard when ordering.

How many tons is a cubic yard of gravel?

It depends on the material. Pea gravel runs about 1.35 tons per cubic yard (~2,700 lb). Crushed stone and river rock are slightly heavier at roughly 1.40 tons per cubic yard (~2,800 lb). Wet material can run 5-10% heavier than dry.

Can I use this calculator for sand or topsoil?

The volume formula (L x W x depth / 27) works for any bulk material. The weight conversion will be off because sand and topsoil have different densities — dry sand is about 1.35 tons/yd3, similar to pea gravel, while topsoil runs lighter at around 0.9-1.0 tons/yd3. If you need precise weights for those materials, use the cubic yard figure and ask your supplier what their product weighs per yard.

How deep should gravel be for a driveway?

A minimum of 4 inches of compacted crushed stone for a residential driveway that sees regular car traffic. Heavy trucks or regular loads mean 6 inches. Pea gravel is not suitable for driveways — use angular crushed stone (crusher run or #57 stone) so it locks together under load.

What is the difference between cubic yards and tons when ordering gravel?

Cubic yards measure volume; tons measure weight. Suppliers may quote either. Use the cubic yard figure when comparing to a volume-based quote and the ton figure when the supplier charges by weight. Both represent the same pile of material — the calculator gives you both so you can match whichever unit your supplier uses.

Also useful for larger outdoor projects: our mulch calculator uses the same cubic-yard engine for organic materials.

Built and maintained by Sam Walsh. Last updated: July 2026. Results are estimates — actual quantities vary with ground conditions and supplier pack sizes.